Every so often there’s a restaurant that lures you in on
scent alone.
Venezia Del Nord is on the corner where Keizersgracht cuts across
Rozengracht. Walking down this street on a few occasions I’ve found myself
stopping and sniffing the air like a twitchy rabbit- it just smells that good. The
air is heavy with the sweet scent of freshly baked dough and hints of tomato
and garlic swirl around the doorway.
The signage is tacky but the third time I found myself on
this corner I just had to go inside.
It’s a funny little place but pleasantly kitsch. There is a
wall covered in bank notes from all over the world (and even a few dead currencies
like the lira and guilder), fishing nets hang from the ceiling with plastic
fish and crabs being held captive and another wall is covered with the business
cards of happy patrons. I decided not to analyse it, so I got stuck into the
menu instead. I’ve since heard that they have a resident cat but didn’t spot it
on this trip. (So many restaurants in Amsterdam have cats that’ll sleep on a
stool in the corner and upset patrons who are used to clinical dining but as my
mother would say ‘rather a cat than a mouse’.)
The selection appeared to be authentic and I was pleasantly
surprised to see only one pollo pizza on the menu- chicken generally dries out when
used as a pizza topping and most good Italian places won’t push to have it on
pizza.
I found myself struggling to pick between the calzone and
the beef pizza. Fortunately Charlie was having the same dilemma so we ordered
both and swapped halfway through.
The pizza base was Roman style- perfectly crisp then topped
with a precise smear of sauce and plenty of ground beef, onions and peppers. With
the addition of a little more pepper and a sprinkling of parmesan it was
unbeatable.
The calzone was huge (and soon dubbed the Stegosaurus) but surprising,
it was faultless. The dough was crisp on the outside yet had the right amount
of ‘chew’. The filling was piping hot with a sweet, flavourful mix of
vegetables and meat. The menu promised it would be served with a meat sauce and
sure enough a simple bolognaise was served alongside in a glazed terracotta pot.
It was completely unnecessary but incredibly delicious.
This food isn’t going to win awards but I’ll be going back again
and again because it does exactly what any good Italian bistro should- classics
that are perfectly executed. This is another one of those places that I can’t
resist because it’s authentic. It’s not trying to be a novelty or claiming to
be haute cuisine and that’s fine because you can go there and believe that a kind
mama has made your meal with love.
If you find yourself nearby on a cold winter’s night call
in; it’s the place to warm you belly and your heart.
Rozengracht 1, 1016 LP Amsterdam, Netherlands
020 624 7896
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